Into the Belly of the Beast (Part 3)

By Winnipeg Bob

Now that you’re on the edge of your seat, drooling, I’ll finish my tale…

During dinner, we were chatting with two ladies, a native New Yorker and her friend from Texas, about the differences in Canadian and U.S. heathcare when waiter Tim tapped my shoulder and pointed to a figure leaning tiredly against the kitchen door.

Carlos.

I asked Tim if Carlos was indeed a ball-buster in the kitchen. Tim kinda dodged the question, saying only that Carlos had been pretty grumpy lately.

Just by looking at Carlos, I could tell he was beat, occasionally wiping a bead of sweat or stray hair from his face as he observed the dining room.

“Damn!” I thought. I’d hoped maybe to meet the man conducting the culinary orchestra that had produced my meal, but I returned to my conversation with the Americans, who were intrigued by Canada’s “free” healthcare, explaining that we are taxed accordingly, but otherwise quite happy with our universal system.

Then Tim tapped me again with a grin, and announced we were all invited back to the kitchen to talk to the chef briefly about our meals, and cameras were welcome.

The ladies declined, but Darlene agreed to accompany me “into the belly of the beast.”

What struck me immediately was how tiny the kitchen is. It looks like a ballroom on TV. When Tony said you have to be light on your feet not to disturb anyone, he wasn’t kidding.

As we watched the proud Mexican crew at work, Carlos seemed to pop out of nowhere, but he was probably standing right there.

I was so excited, my memory here may be fuzzy, but I remember Carlos asking what we ordered and how it was. I babbled that everything was exactly as ordered and excellent!

Then I asked about Tony and how he did filming “Into the Fire.” I’m sure I used the words ball-buster and slacker.

Carlos kinda shrugged and said, yes, he was hard on Tony that night because Tony was out of practice and slow to get up to speed.

I then asked if he kicks Tony’s ass when he shows up at the restaurant from time to time. Like Tim, Carlos replied sort of tiredly that Tony never really comes around anymore, he’s too busy for the place.

I’m sure Carlos harbored no ill will, but was merely reflecting on the life Tony now leads.

And maybe, just maybe, the staff of Les Halles gets a little tired of customers asking about Bourdain when he hasn’t worked there for nearly a decade.

Shaking Carlos’ hand, I asked if I could have a picture. Tim grabbed a server and grouped the four of us for this shot I’ll always treasure.

(L-R) Waiter Tim, Winnipeg Bob, girlfriend Darlene, Chef Carlos in the kitchen at Les Halles

My overall impression of Les Halles was as it should be. It’s all about giving its patrons an enjoyable evening. Is it Anthony Bourdain’s hangout? NO. But it never was. It was his employer when he happened to get famous.

Does Les Halles benefit from Bourdain? I have no doubt the association, however stale, attracts some wide-eyed travelers like ourselves. But at the end of the day, it’s the great food prepared by Carlos and his crew, and the friendly, attentive service of Tim and the rest of the waitstaff, that will bring you back though these warm, welcoming doors.

(All Photos - Winnipeg Bob)